When I arrive in Narbonne, it’s dusk. The seafront enclave in the South of France enjoys 285 sunny days a year, and early September is no exception. It’s barely sweater weather, but the sea-borne breeze makes it the perfect temperature for my French linen suit.
Seated at an ocean-front table at Mamamouchi, a local institution known for its bohemian beach-brasserie vibes, I order freshly caught oysters, mussels, and a side of French fries. When I asked the waiter which would go well with the meal, he suggested the restaurant’s most popular wine, Gris Blanc from Gérard Bertrand.
Summer is ending, and I’ve never considered drinking rosé outside of the months of peak heat during the year. I don’t want to offend the server and am confident his wine knowledge far exceeds mine, so I confirm I’d like to order the wine he suggests. Of course, it was excellent and paired perfectly with the saltiness of my meal.
THINK PINK
It turns out that the French buy more rosé than red wine. “In France, rosé isn’t just a seasonal wine—it’s a way of life. Rosé holds a unique place in the wine world, embodying elegance, warmth, and a deep connection to the Mediterranean way of life,” Bertrand says. “Drinking rosé is a tradition passed on from generation to generation. Growing up in the South of France, rosé was always a staple at our table.”
I’m dining with Marriane Fabre-Lanvin, the co-founder of the women-owned, vegan, organic Souleil Wines. She’s French and is puzzled by my confusion at the suggestion of drinking rosé in the fall. For her, it’s entirely natural, as she grew up in France, and her family has always enjoyed rosé throughout the year. Thus begins my journey into learning that the French consider rosé an all-season wine.
I blame my ignorance on the rampant misconception in the United States that rosé is a non-serious wine primarily consumed by young women poolside or at the beach. This idea that rosé is overly sweet, fruity, and feminine was drilled into our minds through Instagram-centric rosé brands that fueled the trope, such as Yes Way Rosé, White Girl Rosé, and Babe rosé in a can.
The French are the first to tell you this is all wrong. After all, some of the most famous French rosé wines are from Gérard Bertrand, a former professional Rugby player. Let’s stop gendering wine.
SERIOUS BUSINESS
Gérard Bertrand is the most prominent French producer in the U.S. market, shipping around 600,000 cases annually. “Rosé can be as complex as white, red, or orange wine. I’m proud to see it becoming a year-round staple for wine lovers everywhere,” says Bertrand. “Rosé should be recognized as a serious, year-round wine.”
The next day, I visited the Gérard Bertrand biodynamic and organic winery in Narbonne and was astonished to.…
By Lola Méndez
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